"Over
millenniums, sand grains were
carried by rivers into the Gulf
and down the coast,” reads a
landmark plaque on Siesta Key.
It goes on, but the message
boils down to this: In the
beginning was the beach. And if
honoring that with a monument
seems pompous, consider that
this 8-mile-long island off
Sarasota, Florida, possesses
sand of award-winning purity and
allure. Loaded with quartz
crystal, Siesta Key’s grains
glitter like snow in the high
Sierras. Some say the quartz
carries a metaphysical charge
that heightens well-being.
Whether you believe that or not,
it’s nearly impossible not to
relax here.
Though linked
to the mainland by two bridges
and hugely popular with both
locals and tourists, Siesta Key
somehow retains a laid-back
island identity. Water views pop
up everywhere: the Gulf of
Mexico to the west, the
Intracoastal Waterway and
sheltered bays to the east, and
miles of canals threading the
interior. Tropical foliage
thrives. Sightings of herons,
wild parrots, and bottlenose
dolphins are common.
This remains
the sort of place where a lost
schnauzer makes the front page
of the local paper. Where the
deck of the Siesta Key Oyster
Bar has a “Pelican Crossing”
sign—and you wouldn’t blink to
see one waddle past. Where the
chalkboard on a lifeguard
station gives water conditions
and the lifeguard’s name
(implying, in friendly waiter
fashion, “I’m Brian—I’ll be your
rescuer today.”) Where plastic
manatee mailboxes look perfectly
normal.
The classic
Siesta Key holiday is a family
affair, and the basic formula
hasn’t changed since the ’60s
and ’70s, when most of the
accommodations were built: Laze
on the beach, take a dip in the
sea or pool, throw some burgers
on the grill, and watch the
cold-drink cans sweat in the
balmy air.
Those curious
about year-round life here
should meander along the quiet
streets with such evocative
names as Primrose Path and
Featherbed Lane. And everyone
should get on the water:
Opportunities for fishing,
sailing, and kayaking are
plentiful.
For couples,
the romantic Turtle Beach Resort
boasts 10 cottages in a
Caribbean-style setting on the
bay. In Siesta Village, visitors
cool down with Big Olaf
Creamery’s ice cream or dig into
The Broken Egg’s hearty omelets.
Those with a taste for exotic
fare can sample Peruvian cuisine
at Javier’s Restaurant and Wine
Bar or the ostrich filet at
Maximo Restaurant & Safari Bar.
Eventually, everyone unwinds at
indoor-outdoor eateries such as
Daiquiri Deck, where tropical
potions swirl hypnotically in a
wall display of mixers, like
laundry in a Laundromat.
Beyond the
bridges lie Sarasota
attractions. But in the end,
it’s all about the island.
“People come here time and time
again to stay at the same place
and sit on the same patch of
sand,” muses Glynis Chapman of
Siesta Sports Rentals. “They
associate Siesta Key with being
carefree.”
That’s true of
those who gather on the beach
for the Sunday-evening drum
circle. Pounding rhythms rise
and fall like waves, fueling
free-form dancing. As the sun
dips into the Gulf, a man plays
an otherworldly tune on a
didgeridoo. At such times it’s
easy to believe Siesta Key’s
celebrated sand magnifies the
island’s good vibrations.