Europe-based Restaurant
Magazine recently revealed
the 50 Best Restaurants in the
World for 2004, chosen by an
international panel of more than
300 hard-to-please restaurateurs,
chefs and critics.
The winner of the coveted
number one spot was The French
Laundry in California, famed for
combining exceptional ingredients
and wonderful surroundings with a
fanatical attention to detail.
This is the second year running
that chef Thomas Keller has
scooped the award and he even
found the time to open a second
restaurant, Per Se, In New York.
The 50 Best rankings and a full
list of award winners are shown
below.
British restaurants had their
strongest showing yet with The Fat
Duck in Bray ranking at number
two, and picking up awards for
'Best Newcomer to the List' and
'Best European Restaurant.'
London restaurants dominated
this year's list. Entrants
included classic fine-dining
restaurants such as Le Gavroche
and The Square, fashionable haunts
with comfort food such as The Ivy
and The Wolseley, winner of the
'Editors Choice' award, and quirky
modern classics such as cult
eatery St John. The latter
restaurant won the 'Most improved
Restaurant on the list' award and
is famed for its signature dishes
of 'Roasted bone marrow' and
'Squirrel with offal on toast.'
Thom Hetherington, Marketing
Director for Restaurant Magazine
said, "This has been the year
of the big boys, with the world's
recognized 'super-chefs' and major
dining cities like London, New
York and Paris all reasserting
themselves. That said, it's great
to see that such a variety of
British restaurants made the list.
Their styles range from fine
dining to casual; quirky to
classic and their cuisines include
British, French, Italian and
Japanese. It is this eclectic yet
outstanding offering which makes
London such a fabulous city to eat
out in."
Restaurant Magazine — 50
Best Restaurants in the World 2004
- French Laundry, Yountville,
CA, USA
- The Fat Duck, Bray,
Berkshire, UK
- El Bulli, Montjoi, Spain
- L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon,
Rue de Montalembert, Paris
- Pierre Gagnaire, Rue Balzac,
Paris
- Guy Savoy, Rue Troyon, Paris
- Nobu, Park Lane, London
- Restaurant Gordon Ramsay,
Royal Hospital Road, London
- Michel Bras, Laguiole,
France
- Louis XV, Monaco
- Gramercy Tavern, New York
- Daniel, New York
- Tetsuya's, Sydney
- Hakkasan, London
- The Waterside Inn, Bray
- St. John, London
- L'Ami Louis, Paris
- Jean Georges, New York
- Le Gavroche, London
- Flower Drum, Melbourne
- The Merchant House, Ludlow
- Arzak, San Sebastian, Spain
- Dal Pescatore, Canneto
sull'Oglio, Italy
- The Ivy, London
- Arpege, Paris
- El Raco de Can Fabes, San
Celoni, Spain
- Schwarzwaldstube,
Baiersbronn, Germany
- The Cliff, Barbados
- Rockpool, Sydney
- Le Manoir Aux Quat' Saisons,
Oxford
- Al Mahara, Burj Al Arab,
Dubai
- Charlie Trotter, Chicago
- Le Jardin des Sens,
Montpellier
- The Square, London
- Spago, Los Angeles
- Bukhara, India
- Chez Panisse, California
- Le Meurice, Paris
- Trois Gros, Roanne, France
- Balthazar, New York
- River Cafe, London
- La Tupina, Bordeaux
- Auberge d'Ill, Illhauseern-Alsace
- Craft, New York
- Le Tour d'Argent, Paris
- La Maison de Marc Veyrat,
Annecy, France
- Felix, Peninsula Hotel, Hong
Kong
- De Karmeliet, Bruges
- The Wolseley, London
- Gambero Rosso, San Vincenzo
Individual Award Winners
Best Restaurant in the World:
The French Laundry, CA, USA
Best American Restaurant: The
French Laundry, CA, USA
Best European Restaurant: The
Fat Duck, Bray, UK
Best African and Middle
Eastern Restaurant: Al Mahara,
Dubai
Best Asian Restaurant:
Bukhara, New Delhi, India
Best Australasian Restaurant:
Tetsuya's, Sydney, Australia
Best Newcomer to the List:
The Fat Duck, Bray, UK
Most Improved Restaurant on
the List: St. John, London, UK
Outstanding Value: Gramercy
Tavern, NY, USA
Chef's Choice (voted for by
last year's 50 Best): Tetsuya's,
Sydney, Australia
Editor's Choice (voted for by
editorial panel): The Wolseley,
UK, London
Top Ten Best Restaurants in
the World: A Review
French Laundry
Yountville, California
"Is it possible that the best
French restaurant is not in
France?" asks the critic from
Le Monde. Well, it certainly
appears so. Thomas Keller holds
pole position for the second year
running with his Napa Valley take
on a three-star French country
restaurant. The 10-course tasting
menu is incredible. Open with
bagaduce oysters and ossetra
caviar, then wing through
variations on truffles, tuna
nicoise, sweet butter-poached
lobster, chicken and dumplings,
spring lamb and so on, finishing
in triumph with the delice au
chocolat et caramel. Heaven on a
plate for $220.
· Bookings:
Reserve up to two months in
advance.
· Where to stay:
Continue the French-California
theme at Maison Fleurie — five
minutes from the restaurant. It
has 13 rooms set in a peaceful
landscaped garden. Bicycles are
provided to help tick off the
surrounding Napa wineries.
THE FAT DUCK
Bray, Berkshire, UK
This is the place that does
bacon-and-egg ice cream, snail
porridge and sardine-on-toast
sorbet. So you can safely say
you've never had a meal like it.
Run by chef Heston Blumenthal
since it opened in 1995, it picked
up its third Michelin star in
January. The spectacular
eight-course tasting menu includes
all the above and costs $225.
· Bookings: Reserve
two weeks in advance for weekdays
and at least a month ahead for
weekends.
· Where to stay:
Make a gastronomic weekend of it
and stay at the Michelin-starred
nine-room Waterside Inn.
EL BULLI
Montjoi, Spain
With sweeping views of
the Costa Brava and an
unprecedented approach to food, El
Bulli is a great adventure for the
traveling gourmet. Ferran Adria
opens his restaurant from March to
September; the rest of the time,
he's in his workshop,
experimenting with new tastes and
techniques. Be his guinea pig and
sign up for the $265 tasting menu.
· Bookings:
Don't hold your breath. There is
no availability left this year.
Call now for dinner in April 2005.
· Where to stay:
Nearby Roses is packed and
touristy. Head in the other
direction to Cala Joncols, a
fairly modest 25-room hotel in its
own gardens behind the beach.
L'ATELIER DE JOEL
ROBUCHON
Rue de Montalembert, Paris
Ah, the French capital gets a
look-in at last. You've got the
next three entries to chose from,
and the first marks the 2003
return from retirement of the most
famous of French chefs. Joel
Robuchon doesn't have tables in
his restaurant — diners sit on
bar stools around the open
kitchen. So, France's best
restaurant is a long way from the
haughty haute cuisine you might
expect. Le Figaro was in no doubt:
"C'est une revolution!"
Expect to pay about $186.
· Bookings: You
don't. You turn up with crossed
fingers, put your name on the list
and wait at the bar.
· Where to stay:
The restaurant is attached to the
historic Hotel Pont Royal or, 15
minutes away, try Hotel de la
Tulipe, hidden in an ancient
convent.
PIERRE GAGNAIRE
Rue Balzac, Paris
El Bulli's Adria has been dubbed
the Salvador Dali of cooking.
Gagnaire should be its Matisse: a
bold, experimental chef cooking up
a storm in the chic 8th
arrondissement. The nine-course
prix fixe menu costs $373. Leave
room for the famous Grand Dessert,
seven mini delights such as rum
baba, roasted rhubarb and
buckwheat pancake.
· Bookings:
Reservations are taken up to a
month ahead.
· Where to stay:
The 1920's Hotel Elysees Matignon
is also in the 8th arrondissement.
GUY SAVOY
Rue Troyon, Paris
Just around the corner
from the Arc de Triomphe, Savoy
completes the Parisian
triumvirate, with classic tasting
menus from $375. "To grow a
carrot, you have to wait several
weeks," says the master chef.
"We need to have a deep
respect for the product." And
he does.
· Bookings: You
are looking at two or three weeks
for an 8pm table.
· Where to stay:
Hotel de Banville (166 Boulevard
Berthier; is a classic, right in
the heart of Paris and just a
five-minute taxi ride from the
restaurant (With what you'll be
eating you should walk).
NOBU
Park Lane, London
The fact that it is still the
ultimate celebrity haunt shouldn't
put you off. There are eight
Nobu's around the world, but
London's is consistently rated the
best, its star quality a result
not just of the incredible
Japanese/South American menu
(don't miss the black cod with
miso), but of the sophisticated
service and style. The chef's menu
costs $185.
· Bookings:
Reserve two weeks ahead for a
Friday night, three weeks for a
Saturday evening.
· Where to stay:
Nobu is part of the super-trendy
Metropolitan. We recommend trying
it.
RESTAURANT GORDON
RAMSAY
Royal Hospital Road, London
Ramsay's first and best,
established in 1998 and sporting a
well deserved three stars since
2001. When he's not roasting his
kitchen staff, Ramsay oversees a
particularly intimate setup here
— there are just 14 tables. At
$213, the seven-course menu
prestige is great value,
especially with the wine list
starting at $30. Treats include
tortellini of lobster and sautéed
loin of venison with creamed
cabbage and bitter chocolate
sauce.
· Bookings: You
can make a reservation up to one
calendar month in advance.
· Where to stay:
The boutique Myhotel Chelsea is a
15-minute walk from the
restaurant.
MICHEL BRAS
Laguiole, France
On a hilltop in the
middle of the French countryside
sits this post-postmodern temple
of cuisine, like something that's
dropped out of Stanley Kubrick's
Space Odyssey. The two menus —
$165 and $269 — are a riot of
rare ingredients, accompanied by
equally rare wines.
· Bookings:
Phone at least two months in
advance. The restaurant is open
between April and October; we
recommend booking in January.
· Where to stay:
The easiest way to get a table is
to stay at super-cool Michel Bras
itself.
LOUIS XV
Monaco
As opulent dining rooms
go, this has to be the most
opulent: huge chandeliers, ornate
frescoes and a quite preposterous
flower arrangement. It's palatial,
but Alain Ducasse's menu does it
proud, with true Riviera cuisine:
Limousin veal, Pyrenean lamb and
amazing local herbs and breads.
The six-course (and more) menu
gourmet costs $335.
· Bookings: Call
two or three weeks in advance.
· Where to stay:
Forget the budget. This is Monaco
— live how the other half does
at the spectacular Hotel de Paris,
home to the Louis XV.